Why Taberna Almarcén earns its table by the market
Most bars pressing against the walls of the Mercado Central trade on quick fried fish, paper cones of chicharrones, or a standing beer at a barrel. Taberna Almarcén, at the corner of Calle Robles and Calle Libertad 13, works differently: a neighbourhood tavern with the polish and plating of a sit-down restaurant, where the menu gives equal weight to wild atún de almadraba, slow-cooked meats, and proper rice dishes.
It is a useful address when you want the bustle of the market square without eating on your feet, or when half your table wants raw Barbate tuna and the other half wants retinto beef meatballs and mushroom risotto. Note the spelling on the sign outside: local roundups occasionally print it as "Taberna Armacén", but the house name is Taberna Almarcén.
The people and the room
The tavern opened in February 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shut Spain's dining rooms. Jesús Madroñal, a graduate of the Escuela de Hostelería de Cádiz who had already worked in this exact corner unit under its previous guise, runs the front of house; chef Arancha Vargas leads the kitchen alongside her team. Once restrictions lifted, the pair returned and built a steady local following by cooking dishes that step away from standard market-perimeter fare.
In January 2023, they shortened the counter on the right-hand side of the entrance to fit two extra indoor tables. Between that compact interior dining room and the outdoor terrace on the street beside the market, seating stays tight, which makes booking ahead far wiser than chancing a walk-in at peak lunch.
What to order: almadraba tuna, rice and croquetas
Chef Arancha Vargas organises her kitchen around three pillars: tuna, rice, and meat. Starters in the lighter "Rico y sano" section lean on local curing and market produce: a refreshing beetroot salmorejo topped with diced mojama, a pink tomato salad dressed with Barbate tuna loins, and a creamy house ensaladilla finished with carrot emulsion, fried capers, and mackerel roe.
House croquetas are a strong suit and come in four distinct recipes:
- Puchero stew with pepper and Iberian ham
- Atún encebollado (tuna cooked with onions) topped with alioli
- Roquefort and walnuts paired with blueberry jam
- Wakame seaweed and prawns
For wild almadraba bluefin tuna, the kitchen goes well beyond a token tartar, though the tartar and tataki remain the two most ordered plates in the house. Depending on the day and season, you can order sashimi, semi-spicy tuna cubes with pickled vegetables, almadraba udon noodles, traditional atún encebollado al brandy, or richer cuts like ventresca y tarantelo seared on the plancha or over the grill.
If you came for rice or meat, the signature plate since opening day has been the mushroom risotto built with Cádiz chicharrones, black truffle, and Payoyo goat cheese from the sierra. Two other rices anchor the menu, one made with descargamento (lean inner loin of almadraba tuna) and artichokes, and a soupy marinero rice with king prawns (arroz caldoso de gambones), plus an off-menu rice special that changes daily. Rounding out the savoury list are a grilled octopus brioche, cuttlefish bao (bao de choco), Iberian sweetbreads (mollejas ibéricas), pork cheek (carrillada), abanico ibérico, retinto beef meatballs, and Frisona or Angus entrecôte.
Practical details and reservations
Taberna Almarcén sits at Calle Libertad 13, at the corner of Calle Robles, immediately beside the central market and a short walk from La Viña and Torre Tavira. Because the indoor room is small and the terrace tables fill quickly whenever the weather holds, reserve ahead, especially on weekends or during Carnival. You can book online through the tavern's website (elalmarcencadiz.com) or by calling +34 856 58 13 53.